Tuesday, 11 June
From Trinidad, it’s not far to Lady Bird Johnson’s Grove, where you can go on an easy, perfectly proportioned meander through very impressive redwoods (although apparently these ones are ‘relatively small’). Certainly compared to Redding, where we were just two days ago, these woods were incredibly lush. Scent and flavour obsessive that I am, I immediately spotted the wood sorrel blanketing much of the ground between ferns, and decided to munch on it as we went. I’m currently reading Benjamin Hoff’s The Tao of Pooh (it was the book jacket that charmed me when I came across it in my grandparents’ office), and strolling through the woods contentedly munching on things is, apparently, what life is all about. Sans smartphone for snapping away with, of course.
We stopped for lunch at a pretty iconic taco stand that was the best-reviewed food around. Marooned by the side of the highway, at picnic tables in blazing sun (for now), we tucked into fresh fish tacos and horchata casera, both prepared by the eponymous monoglot Lolita. Luckily, my sister Eleanor is a dab hand, er, tongue at languages, including Spanish. Thus, we didn’t accidentally end up with cabeza carnitas and tacos de tripa (not that Alfie would have complained).
The very long drive up the coast to Newport, Oregon somewhat blurs. I remember that the first thing over the state line is a dispensary, as cannabis was legalised in Oregon two years before it was in California. It was quite a beautiful route, with some ‘Big Sur’-like scenery, several fun bridges (much more of that to come!), endless dips in and out of Tsunami Risk Zones, and many, many pine trees. Oh, and Paul and his Babe, of course. We arrived in Newport just in time for the sunset. Having somehow scored an Airbnb overlooking the town’s iconic bridge, we rushed inside and cracked open our bottle of Costco mimosa to toast the setting orb. Score.
Wednesday, 12 June
Newport was wonderfully sunny in the morning. Alfie and I went for a walk along the waterfront, through evergreen-studded reedy grass (a favourite biome around here) and under swooping swallows. The roses in the front gardens sparkled in the morning dew. Once everyone was ready, we headed to brunch place I’d found nearby. Unfortunately, it turned out to be disappointing, not least because the oysters and clams I was excited to eat frittered with biscuits and home fries aren’t currently available (paralytic shellfish poisoning, anyone?). Regardless, it was good to fuel up for the alcohol ahead.
In Depoe Bay, we stopped for the whale-watching centre (spoiler: no humpbacks, orcas, or other cetaceans were spotted) and to buy Norval some saltwater taffy. Ellie and Izzy were keen on the local coffee roasteries, while I enjoyed the all-novelty sock store (the redactio ad absurdum of Powell’s City of Merch, sorry, Books in Portland) and the waterfront’s kitschy tourist shops. And we did find some very cute harbor seals sunning themselves beside the ‘World’s Smallest Harbor’.
Turning inland, we made our way to Art + Science Cider & Wine, about a third of the way to Portland. With their combined backgrounds in science (viticulture and oenology) and art (amazing cut-paper labels!) respectively, owners Dan and Kim make a fascinating array of quite experimental, all-natural fermented fruit drinks on their small farm — about 1/3 wine, 1/3 co-ferments, and 1/3 cider and perry. I had been inspired to visit by the fame of their quince ferments. (In case you haven’t cottoned on by now, I love quinces.)
Dan and Kim were incredibly welcoming to the whole fam, providing lots of samples and even inviting everyone into the cellar (acacia barrels anyone?). I ignored my sisters’ giggles as Dan and I strolled head of them through the orchard, nerding out about fermentation practices in different wine regions and the effects of weather patterns on tannin prevalence. Turns out the two of them loved the crazy-tannic ‘Twilight’ seedling perry (one of my favourites too); go figure.
In the end, I left with a restrained amount of bottles (bloody peer pressure). Still, I like to think that those who were somewhat dragged there ended up having quite a good time. There’s something about visiting people who make delicious products that they’re very proud of and want to generously share with you that means you’re always in for a good time. It’s a big part of why I love seeking out interesting, small wineries, cideries, &c.
Coming back into Portland was like seeing an old friend (although sadly quite a traffic-congested one). We parked up next to a ‘tool library’; we passed flamingos dressed in Pride outfits decorating a front garden; and we were finally back in the vicinity of many a Trader Joe. I’m glad I broke one of my travel rules and took us back to a food spot we’d already visited, Hat Yai on Killingsworth. I went for the Southern Thai green curry with brisket this time, and it was absolutely glorious.
Extremely entertaining, thouroughly enjoyed ,groovy amusing photos too